On The 4Th Of July, Light It Up With Spicy Wings
Jul 3rd, 2008 | By admin | Category: FoodsSeek truth. Ford the rivers. Scale the mountain. Query the Wise One. Whisper into his gnarly ear, and beseech him to reveal the secret of gastronomic Nirvana.
“My child,” he would intone, “Lo.” (He begins every sentence with Lo.) “You shall find ultimate bliss in the outstretched wings of fire-kissed poultry Cooking Light .”
What ‘da?
Does he mean chicken wings?
Yes. Truth sought is truth got. Chicken wings rule.
According to the National Chicken Council, in 2006, 11 billion chicken wings were eaten in the United States. Most people have only hot-lips experience with Buffalo chicken wings, the ones invented in that fair city in October, 1964 at the Anchor Bar. They are still a popular and favorite crowd-pleaser at barbecues, tailgate parties and picnics. But in 44 years, we’ve come a long way from the classic deep-fried wings with hot sauce and blue cheese dip.
The husband and wife team of chef-teacher Hugh Carpenter and food-photographer-stylist Teri Sandison are ahead of the curve. Their recent cookbook, “The Great Wings Book,” presents more than 50 innovative recipes for appetizers, entrees and snacks for this best of all lip-smackin’, bone-suckin’ finger foods. They cover everything you need to know to buy, store, roast, grill, smoke, braise and deep-fry wings at home. The book is the latest of their skillfully photographed and always successful Hot and Fast series of books, all from Ten Speed Press. I bought the wings book, tested some recipes and bring you what I think are the best of the flight.
These babies soar
What’s not to like? Chicken wings are inexpensive, succulent, a cinch to cook and they reheat beautifully. Usually served as an appetizer, they make a great entree, too. As for menu, what goes with burgers and ribs goes also with wings: potato salad, coleslaw, corn on the cob, garlic bread, watermelon and ice cream. And supply tons of paper napkins and at least one wet wash cloth per person. There will be drips and smears.
For a party, make two or three kinds of wings. Choose the cooking method that makes the most sense with your skills and equipment.
? Braising. This is the simplest, year-round way to cook wings, and it leaves the cook free to be elsewhere. A large deep pan accommodates wings packed closely together so that they are all covered equally with the sauce. The pan is tightly covered and left to simmer quietly. The skin will be soft and juicy, not crispy.
? Deep frying. Most restaurants make their wings in the fryer. After the chicken wings are coated with a protective layer of batter or flour, they are plunged into hot oil to cook, requiring between 10 and 15 minutes of cooking. On the upside, the skin is crisp and the meat is succulent. On the downside, the technique is rife with potential problems including spattering, constant monitoring and the necessity of practice, practice, practice to get it right. Most home cooks just don’t make wings often enough to warrant this method.
? Grilling. Use a gas or charcoal-fired grill large enough to hold the wings. The grill must have a tight-fitting lid, because wings are always cooked covered to keep in all the smoky flavors. Better to err on too low a heat rather than too high, because the skin on wings burns easily. If you have a long-stem oven thermometer, insert it into one of the vents on the top lid; and keep the temperature in the 300- to 350-degree range. The wing bones distribute the heat and the skin protects the meat from becoming dry. Which leaves us with:
? Oven Roasting. Easiest wing cooking method? No contest. Grilling may be sexy and macho, but the oven offers the most convenience and control. Use a heavy baking sheet with shallow sides and line it with heavy-duty aluminum foil before placing a nonstick wire rack on top. For insurance, spritz the rack on both sides with a nonstick baking spray or rub liberally with vegetable oil. Burned sugar from marinades makes for nasty cleanup.
Rule-of-thumb One: Place the wings smooth side (pretty side) down. Halfway through the cooking, turn the wings over so that the pretty side colors evenly. And when you turn the wings over, if any juice has accumulated on the bottom of the baking pan, pour it off and discard it. If you don’t, the wings will steam during the final 30 minutes of cooking instead of roasting and coloring.
Rule-of-thumb Two: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Or if your oven has a convection setting, set the oven on convection at 350 degrees. Brush with the marinade, turn the wings after 30 minutes and don’t brush again or the skin won’t get that beautiful bronze or mahogany color. After the wings come out of the oven, wait five minutes before cutting them in half to serve.
An hour sounds like a long time to roast teensy chicken wings, but it’s just right. Roasting is a fool-proof technique for them. After the first 30 minutes of roasting, the meat is fully cooked, but the skin is still soft-textured and flabby. It’s during the next 30 minutes of roasting that the skin is transformed to a mahogany color and develops crispness. And, hard to believe, the wing meat tastes more intensely moist with the extra cooking.
To reheat, place wings on a shallow baking pan lined with foil, and place in a preheated 300 degree oven for 15 minutes.
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